How much does it cost to fix a hose bib that drips when off?

The short answer

An outdoor hose bib that drips when it's shut off is almost always a worn washer, a cracked frost-free stem, or a loose packing nut. The fix ranges from a $12 part to a full faucet replacement.

A licensed plumber charges $150–$450, and that spread depends entirely on whether they can swap a part at the wall or have to open it up.

The single biggest cost driver is the faucet type. A standard threaded bib is a weekend fix. A soldered frost-free unit behind finished drywall is where the plumber's invoice climbs.

What you'll actually pay in 2026

DIY parts are cheap. A washer kit is $6 to $10, a replacement standard hose bib is $12 to $25, and a frost-free unit runs $18 to $45.

A plumber's bill starts with a trip fee, typically $75 to $150 in most US markets. Labor for a straightforward threaded swap adds another $100 to $175.

Where it gets expensive: a soldered frost-free replacement means torch work, and cutting into drywall for pipe access adds time. That's what pushes the total into the $150–$450 zone.

If the leak already rotted framing or sheathing, that's a separate repair entirely and not included in these numbers. Catching it early is the whole game.

• Washer kit: $6-10
• Standard replacement hose bib: $12-25
• Frost-free hose bib: $18-45
• Plumber trip fee: $75-150
• Professional repair typically runs $150–$450. This is not a DIY job, so plan on hiring a pro.
• Professional repair typically runs $150–$450. This is not a DIY job, so plan on hiring a pro.

How we build these cost estimates

Our cost ranges come from field-typical parts pricing and 2026 US labor rates, weighted toward what actually shows up on invoices rather than best-case quotes.

DIY figures assume you buy the parts plus one or two tools you might not already own. Pro figures include a standard trip fee plus labor for the common repair scenarios.

Prices vary by region, faucet type, and how buried the pipe is behind finished walls. Treat these as a planning range, then confirm with a local licensed plumber for anything beyond a basic washer swap.

What's actually causing the drip

Start with the washer. It's the rubber disc at the tip of the valve stem, and after years of compression it hardens and stops sealing. This is the most common summer culprit because watering season runs the valve hard.

Next suspect is the frost-free stem. These faucets shut water off deep inside the warm wall. If a hose was left attached over winter, trapped water froze and split the copper tube. You won't see it until spring or summer use pressurizes the crack.

The packing nut is the sneaky one. Water weeping around the handle looks like a spout drip to most people, but it's just a dried-out packing washer. This is the cheapest and easiest fix of the bunch.

Mineral buildup and grit on the seat hold the valve open a hair, common on well water. And on older homes, the brass body itself corrodes and cracks, which no washer will fix.

How to diagnose it step by step

Kill the water first. Look for a dedicated shutoff on the supply line inside your basement or crawlspace, often within a few feet of where the pipe exits the wall. If there isn't one, use the main.

Drain the faucet by opening it fully with the hose removed. Then do the cap test: thread a cap or press your thumb hard over the spout while the handle is open.

If water backs up and escapes at the handle or you hear it running inside the wall, the frost-free stem is cracked. That's a replacement, and usually a pro one.

If the cap test holds and the drip is purely at the spout, you're dealing with a washer or seat issue. Remove the packing nut, pull the stem straight out, and inspect the rubber tip.

Feel the brass seat inside the valve body with a fingertip. Smooth means a new washer will seal. Gritty, pitted, or scored means the seat's damaged and needs grinding or replacement.

• Adjustable wrench or the correct socket for the packing nut
• Washer assortment kit (match diameter and thickness)
• Plumber's grease for the stem threads
• Rag and a small bucket for the drainage
• Flashlight to inspect the seat

Should you DIY this or call someone

A standard threaded hose bib with a spout drip is a legitimate DIY job. If you can shut off the water and turn a wrench, you can swap a washer or the whole faucet in under an hour.

The line moves fast when it's frost-free. Those units thread deep into the house and often connect to copper. Getting the length right and sealing the joint takes experience.

Anything soldered is a hard stop for most homeowners. Torch work next to framing, insulation, and vapor barriers is a real fire risk, and a bad solder joint leaks inside the wall where you can't see it.

If the cap test showed a wall leak, or you found green corrosion on the body, skip the parts store and book a licensed plumber. Paying $400 now beats paying for water damage remediation later.

Can this wait, or fix it now?

A pure spout drip on a standard bib isn't an emergency. It wastes water and money, but it won't wreck your house. Fix it within a few weeks and you're fine.

A cracked frost-free stem is different. That water can escape inside the wall every time you use the faucet, and it does its damage quietly. Treat that one as urgent.

Corrosion on the valve body is a slow-motion emergency. A hairline crack today can split open and flood a basement, especially if the faucet sees full water pressure.

Waiting only makes sense when you've confirmed it's just a spout drip.

How your home's age changes the odds

Homes built before the mid-1980s often have standard brass hose bibs soldered straight to copper. These are the corrosion candidates, and after 40-plus years the valve body itself can be the leak source.

Newer construction, roughly 1990 onward in cold climates, usually has frost-free faucets. That's good for freeze protection but means a split stem is the likelier failure than a simple washer.

If you bought your home in the last few years and don't know which type you have, the tell is the body length. A frost-free handle sits an inch or two proud of the siding, and the assembly runs deep into the wall.

Why summer is when it shows up

Most hose bib drips announce themselves in warm months for two reasons. One, you're using the faucet daily, so a marginal washer finally quits.

Two, damage from the previous winter stays hidden until you turn the water on. A stem that cracked in January might not drip until you water the garden in June.

The prevention that saves you all of this: disconnect every hose before the first freeze and, if you have shutoffs, drain the lines. A hose left on over winter is the leading cause of cracked frost-free faucets.

Working on it safely

Shut the water off before you touch the packing nut. A stem under pressure can pop out and spray, and you don't want to be reassembling a valve in a puddle.

Go easy on old brass. Corroded nuts crack when you force them, and a snapped fitting turns a $15 job into a $400 one.

Check for hidden damage before you congratulate yourself. Stained drywall, a musty smell, or soft trim near the faucet means water's been getting in, and that needs attention beyond the valve.

Quick answers before you start

Most people can handle a standard washer swap and save the pro fee. The judgment call is honest self-assessment: if it's frost-free, soldered, or leaking in the wall, that's plumber territory.

When in doubt, do the cap test. It tells you in 30 seconds whether you're looking at a $12 fix or a job worth paying to get right.